III · BODY CARE
Squalane: What It Is and Why It's Used
INCI name: Squalane. Emollient / skin-conditioning agent.
- INCI Name
- Squalane
- Formula
- C₃₀H₆₂
- Function Group
- Emollient / skin-conditioning agent
Origin
Squalane is the hydrogenated (saturated) form of squalene, a triterpene compound that occurs naturally in the skin's own sebum and in the liver oils of deep-sea sharks. Commercial shark liver oil was the dominant source of squalene for cosmetics through most of the 20th century. Concern about shark finning and overfishing drove a shift to plant-derived sources — primarily sugarcane, olive, and amaranth — which now provide most commercially available squalane.
Why It's Used
Squalane is an emollient that closely mimics one of the skin's own naturally occurring lipids. Unlike squalene, it is fully saturated and therefore stable — it does not oxidise on the skin's surface. It is lightweight, non-comedogenic, and penetrates easily. The source of squalane (shark vs. plant) has no bearing on the molecule's function or safety — it is chemically identical regardless of origin.
Elsewhere
Squalene (unsaturated) is still used in some pharmaceutical adjuvant systems for vaccines. Squalane is also used in lubricants, specialty oils, and as a carrier in some pharmaceutical preparations.
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