I · FACIAL CARE
Retinol: What It Is and Why It's Used
INCI name: Retinol. Skin-conditioning active / antioxidant.
- INCI Name
- Retinol
- Formula
- C₂₀H₃₀O
- Function Group
- Skin-conditioning active / antioxidant
Origin
Retinol is vitamin A in its alcohol form. The vitamin itself was identified in the early 20th century as a fat-soluble factor essential for growth and vision. The connection to skin came later: retinoic acid (a metabolite of retinol) was first studied as a treatment for acne in the 1960s by Albert Kligman, who observed its effects on cell turnover. Retinol as a cosmetic ingredient emerged as a way to get the benefit without the prescription requirement that applies to retinoic acid.
Why It's Used
In the skin, retinol is converted through a two-step process to retinoic acid, the biologically active form. It accelerates cell turnover in the epidermis and stimulates collagen production in the dermis. The conversion efficiency varies between individuals, which means the effective dose from a stated concentration is not consistent. It is also unstable — degraded by light and oxygen — which makes packaging and formulation significant.
Elsewhere
Vitamin A derivatives are used in the treatment of severe acne (isotretinoin, an oral retinoid) and certain skin conditions. Retinol and its derivatives appear in livestock feed to prevent deficiency diseases, and vitamin A is a component of standard nutritional supplementation programmes worldwide.
What the Framework Sees
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