V · HAND & NAIL CARE
Urea: What It Is and Why It's Used
INCI name: Urea. Humectant / keratolytic agent.
- INCI Name
- Urea
- Formula
- CH₄N₂O
- Function Group
- Humectant / keratolytic agent
Origin
Urea was the first organic compound synthesised from inorganic precursors — Friedrich Wöhler produced it from ammonium cyanate in 1828, in a synthesis that is historically significant for disproving the idea that organic compounds could only be produced by living organisms. Urea occurs naturally in urine and in the skin's own natural moisturising factor (NMF). Its cosmetic use as a moisturising and keratolytic agent is based on its natural role in skin hydration.
Why It's Used
At lower concentrations (2–10%), urea functions as a humectant — it draws and retains water in the stratum corneum (the skin's outer layer). At higher concentrations (>10–20%), it has keratolytic effects — it softens and breaks down thickened or hardened skin. This makes it relevant to both hand creams (where the humectant function dominates) and foot care and nail preparations (where keratolytic action may be desired).
Elsewhere
Urea is the most important nitrogen fertiliser globally, produced at enormous scale from ammonia and carbon dioxide. It is used in animal feed as a non-protein nitrogen source, in industrial resins (urea-formaldehyde), and as a pharmaceutical active in topical preparations at both cosmetic and prescription concentrations.
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